The last three days of our three week trip will be dedicated to a private Rioja Region Wine tour of Spain which takes us out of the big cities and puts us out int he beautiful countryside of farm land which we are so excited to experience!
Rioja Tour – Day 1
Today we travelled from Barcelona to the capital city of Rioja Ligrono which we did by train and then were picked up by private car to take us a quick 20 minutues over to an amazing walled city called Laguardia. This was just our stopping point for one night and we were put ta this great hotel within the walls called Hospedería Los Parajes which just had 16 rooms but a wine cellar, spa and wonderful restaurant. We arrived mid-day and took a quick nap and then decided to get a massage and take advantage of their spa facilities including hot tub, steam room and showers. Another great relaxation time before an amazing dinner! We strolled around Laguardia and took in the sites and Phil even woke up early the next day to do some drone footage before our tour guide picked us up!
Rioja Tour – Day 2
Today we were picked up by our awesome tour guide/driver Janni. He is a 32 year old native Cuban that graduated from Havana Univ and left Cuba leavig his family behind for a better life He is a super knowledgeable tour guide who was originally a college professor that loves to teach everything history, wine and all things fascinating. We found him to be somewhat of a young renaissance man who loves history, music, he paints, sends things home ot his fmaly and has found his love in Spain. He was perfect for us for the next 2 days. We had 2 wineries and then a hotel/winery for dinner so I will cover each separately:
Roda: BODEGAS RODA is located in the edge of the river Ebro, in Haro, La Rioja. They have been making wine for 35 years focusing on vineyards of 35 – 100 years old they have either acquired or buy grapes from. While the tour and facility were impressive we were not overjoyed with their wines. Ostatu Winery: At the beginning of the 1970s, after centuries of tradition in the world of family winegrowing, our parents, Doroteo and María Asunción, decided to sell their own wines, We just did a wine tasting there and there was one wine from 2019 we were impressed with and bought a bottle to share in the evening with our tour guide.
Marques de Riscal: Now this was a stop! Foundation of Marqués de Riscal by D. Guillermo Hurtado de Amézaga in 1858. The birth of a dream. But even though they have been making wine for a very long time, we were taken there to experience a fixed menu lunch at their Michelin restuarant that is part of the hotel by the same name which was opened in 2006 with just 18 rooms which then grew to 63 based on demand. The lunch was phenomenal and of course because this is a top Marriott property I asked the staff to provide an impromptu site visit which showed me some amazing rooms and facilities.
Once this was all over we headed to the town of Burgos for the night where we strolled the streets and Phil captured some amazing photos of the cathedral. Tomorrow our last full day and wine tasting!
Rioja Tour – Day 2
Our final day of three weeks of fun and adventure…. today did not dissapoint. We had another 3 stops before finishing up in Madrid for our flights home tomorrow am.
Pago de los Capellanes Winery: Our first stop of the day. This winery has a great family story,
In the 15th century, the chaplains of Pedrosa de Duero, in the Burgos Ribera, obtained several vineyards in payment for tithes, masses and prayers. . In the 19th century, the famous Pedrosa Capellans vineyard was distributed among several local families. Doroteo Rodero’s son, Paco, recovered the family vineyard in Pedrosa and together with his wife, Conchita Villa, began to expand the property. This was the first winery we loved ALL three wines we tasted and plan to purchase more when we get home.
Bela Winery: Bela was founded in 2017 in Villalba de Duero, when CVNE embarked on a new venture in Ribera del Duero, focusing on estate vineyards located in several villages within the region. The CVNE Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (C.V.N.E.) This marked the birth of a family winery that has grown over five generations. And while they have much history in other parts of Rioja and their barrel room was impressive we did not care for their wines.
Arbas Winery: OH but our final stop. Founded by Jesus Arbas who moved back to the region he grew up in when his ballerina wife was put over a ballet school near by. Jesus decided to buy some vineyards and start making wine and oh does he do well – all vineyards are close to 100 years old and he only produces about 30,000 bottles per year. Now his wife Matya is off dancing/touring; Jesus and his sister in law run the winery and host guests daily. This was by far the best wine we have had and Jesus even drew his own logo onto bottles for us and signed some personally. This place was like heaven – the people, the wine and the environment as he played Fleetwood Mac vinyls as we eat and drink wine. Our drive back to Madrid took us through Segovia where there was a castle which was said to inspire Walt Disney for Cinderellas castle and a stop to see a Roman aquaduct that It was said to be dated to around the 1st century AD. This was the perfect ending to the perfect trip! Wow – are we blessed.
